Nanortalik, Greenland

Day 29

Nanortalik, Greenland

Nanortalik means “place of the polar bears” which the Chamber of Commerce kept away from us. It was settled in the late 18^th century by Norsement and later came the Inuit. The main industries here are crab fishing, seal hunting, fishing and gold mining. About 14 cruise ships visit a year, or a summer season, that is.

At 0530 I looked out and saw we were approaching Nanortalik to our NE. This was evident because of the numerous rock islands we were passing through, the fog dissipating, the mountains ahead and the icebergs nearby. Ahead the sun rose behind the mountains beyond the town.

At 0630 the hook went over the side and we tied up to the bottom of the Querrortuut. It was cool outside. 41F, 9C. This is a tender port so we would have to catch a boat to go ashore, which we did at 0830. Just a short ride and we made the gangway climb shoreside.

iceberg lurking outside our anchorage

view from our cabin

A brief stop at the visitor center for directions then we walked a block or two to the community center where, after a contribution of $10@ to the community center fund, we found ourselves seated at long tables and served fresh locally baked sweet bread and coffee. A group of local people sang a couple of songs for us and continued the welcome and entertainment for 2 hours. We didn't stay for the entire time as shore leave was limited today. Up the hill we went, through town, and down the other side to visit the cemetery and to watch the road crew repair a pothole. Beyond all of this were majestic mountains and fjords. On the way back we stopped at one of the two local grocery stores for pastries. On to the old church, built about 1906 and beyond that an open museum of buildings of the past. We did not have time to go out of town to see the blubber hut and will save that for the next time we visit.

City Hall

In the city center, these local people sang for us. Note traditional garb.

sealskin

Church

Memorial

At the pier were three stalls set up by locals selling their traditional beadwork, stone and bone carvings and other such interesting things. 

Julie with Iskill and the beadwork he made

At 1130 we were back aboard. Sailing was scheduled for 1230.

At 1230 we were seated at a table in the showroom for a special 4 course lunch, prepared and served by the Pinnacle Grill, plied with wine and presented with entertainment by musicians, singers and dancers of the several entertainment groups aboard.

If you can find a copy of the book The Culture of Greenland In Glimpses by Ole G. Jensen, you may find it a great introduction to Greenland's culture.

The noon report: 60º 08.07'N, 045º 13.30'W. At anchor off Nanortalik in the Querrortuut. (I am not kidding.) Wind 10 knots. Humidity 78%. Temp 46F/8C. Sunrise 0524. Sunset 2045. Noon to noon run 177 nm. To next port 807nm. Total voyage 7170 nm.

close up detail of our course this voyage off Nanortalik. Yellow shows our track.

This evening was designated “Gala” so we dressed to the nines, listened to early evening music then dropped in at the Pinnacle Grill for fine dining. The ship is heading SW in the Atlantic again and should be two days at sea before visiting another port; this time St. Johns, Newfoundland.

Sinilluarit. (pronounced “seen-eel-ew-a-reet”) Kalaallisut (Greenlandic Eskimo-Aleut language) for “good night.”