St. Johns, Newfoundland and Labrador

Day 31

Aug 20

St. Johns began in the 1500s around a protected harbor. A fortress still stands above the entrance. The main industry is still tied to fishing.

Last night we had some rolling to help us sleep and the morning came with low, almost flat seas and no white caps, with a cloudy sky and cool moderate temperature. During the wee hours of the morning the ships time was set back another ½ hour. Easy enough when the cabin clock adjusts itself for the time changes, but each change means I have to adjust manually my watch, main camera, video cam, pocket camera and pocket video camera.

A little after 9am I spotted dolphins straight out abeam and headed in an opposite direction of our course. Following a lecture on the golden age of ocean liners we began entering St. Johns Harbor.

Passing through the narrow rocky bluff entrance, beneath the fortress, the harbor opened up before us in a left jog. There we moved slowly, edged to a pier and at 1115 secured, starboard side to town, bow up harbor. From the port side the view was of the narrow part of the harbor with a fueling station opposite us, a view of the fishing boat harbor to the left, boatyards to the right. A trip up one deck to an outside upper deck showed the starboard side view, which shows a walk off port right in the city. Within a block are shops, restaurants, pubs and so on. 

entering the harbor

to the left of our berth

fishing fleet

view from our cabin while tied up

The city is built on a hillside with the main shopping areas one block on a street parallel to the harbor. Within 6 blocks is “The Rooms” which houses the Provincial Archives, and art gallery and a fine museum; the main display at the museum now is on the Newfoundland soldiers of WWI and the heavy casualties they suffered.

With 16 others we boarded a school bus and bounced up the hill to offload by a large old wood church. When the city burned in 1892, this church survived. Next to it is the old British Commissary and stables. Across a large green and flowered lawn stands the Government House, home for the Lt. Governor and the residence for the Queen when she comes to visit. On the edge of the grounds is the

headquarters and stables complex for the mounted police of St. Johns. Their Percherons are magnificent beasts. After nosing around the Government House we were led of the street to gaze at another government building (a parliament house), then a short walk to the Basilica of St. John. Down the street to walk past the Cathedral of St. John (Anglican). More downhill walking and we arrived at the building that houses the Supreme Court of Newfoundland & Labrador. The site of the hanging tree is still open for viewing, now without a gallows. All of this along with a running commentary on the history and culture of St. Johns brought up the suggestion of food so we were led to an alleyway, just right there, and released from the group, a proper number of which formed an invasion force and we stormed the Duke of Duckworth pub. Fish 'n chips washed down with the local ale rejuvenated the spirit and fortified us for a walk down the main street to check out local artwork and clothing. Finally back to the ship at 5.

a memorial to the soldiers WWI

colored houses are typical

The old church

The Lt. Governors House

the reception hall to Government House,

more colorful houses

The ship departed at 8pm and the sun was setting over the hills and the city as we steamed out of the harbor.

The fortress still overlooks the entrance

downtown and a wharf

homes along the harbor

looking back on departure

The noon report: 47º 33.80'N, 052º 42.33'W. Secured to pier. Temp 57ºF/14ºC. Wind 7. Humidity 60%. Sunrise 0604, sunset 2003. Distance to next port: 547 nm. Total voyage 7,980 miles.